squirrelitude: (Default)
1. Use high-proportion feeding for my sourdough starter.

I've been using a feeding schedule that increases the starter 30% per day with no discards, then takes ~85% of it on Sunday to make bread. However, Sandor Katz strongly encourages doubling every day, which means "discarding" half into a discard jar in the fridge and then replenishing with water and flour. This is a little more work, but I often have a discard jar going anyhow for one reason or another, and I regularly make cheese and sauerkraut pancakes using discard. Katz says to discard 75–95% instead, and that this "encourages yeast"; he doesn't explain it thoroughly, but it sounds like the issue here is that otherwise the lactic acid bacteria become too dominant and suppress the yeast (presumably via acidity). Fair enough.

I'll probably do daily high-proportion feeding in a very small jar (maybe 50 g starter), then when I want to bake combine the 40 g of discard with 70 g each of water and flour to make what I believe is called a "leaven", which is left to ferment and is then mixed with other ingredients to create the dough.

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2. Try using non-chlorinated water in my ferments.

Chlorine is an antiseptic, which of course is terrible (in theory) for fermentation. Some microbes are more sensitive than others, but I don't really know whether the chlorinated tap water is making my breads flatter than they could be.

I believe the city's water supply is chlorinated with chloramines, which are harder to remove (they don't just evaporate like chlorine will). Apparently you can neutralize chloramine with vitamin C. I guess I can keep a jug of that combination around without too much trouble.

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3. Make heavier use of fermentation for preserving abundances.

Usually we cook everything down and either can or freeze it, but fermentation would be *way* less work. I'm especially interested to see what I could do with ripe tomatoes.

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4. Keep my finished ferments in the basement, where it's cooler, so they won't get mushy even without refrigeration. (We'll see if this is true.)

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5. Experiment more with salt ratios. Using a splash of whey, sauerkraut brine, etc should allow me to make krauts and whatnot that aren't as salty, since that would establish lactic acid bacteria colonization much faster, reducing the need for salt as a selection factor.

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I'm probably also just going to feel a lot more free to experiment in the kitchen -- fermented tofu, fermented amaranth stalks, various vegetable pickles, maybe some nut cheeses. I'll see if I can apply fermentation to my millet-and-lentil staple as well. I feel like I have a much better sense of the essential processes and can try new combinations much more confidently.

In a different branch of experimentation, my interest in Asian bean ferments is piqued, so I may try natto and some other things I otherwise pass up.
squirrelitude: (Default)
I brought _The Art of Fermentation_ by Sandor Katz with me on the Florida trip, and I've been reading it straight through (though I skipped the bits on alcohol fermentation, which I am largely disinterested in.) The book is somewhere between an encyclopedia, an ethnohistorical foods survey, and a how-to guide. It's very approachable.


Some general notes so far:
The main takeaway on fermentations involving lactic acid bacteria (e.g. yogurt, sauerkraut, and to some extent salami) is that as long as there's an anaerobic environment and sufficient carbohydrates, environmental lactic-acid bacteria will pretty much just take over and acidify and make something safe to eat. They're salt-tolerant, so salt helps them get a leg up, but it's not necessary, and you can often replace it with "backslopping" some of the previous batch in as a starter. (Salt is important for culinary reasons, though, including not allowing sauerkraut to get mushy.) I was startled at how many traditional fermentations are just "put the raw milk in the gourd" and food comes out a few days later. Milk in particular is ideal for this, and you see that in traditions all through Europe and Africa. It turns out that "aging like milk" is a bit of a misnomer -- unless the milk is pasteurized, in which case there's a bit more of a gamble.

However, just because it's safe doesn't mean it's tasty (to you). I've long been suspicious of how the variety of smells of cheeses is widely tolerated in American cuisine, but milk is only supposed to smell one way (a single very mild smell). It sounds like many of the times I've had "spoiled" milk, it would have been recognizable to *someone* in the world as a perfectly good dairy ferment, but that my upbringing has taught me to be disgusted by it (or rather, hasn't taught me to like it). As Katz points out, fermentation is a large middle ground between fresh and rotten. Some things are unambiguously rotten, but many are culturally relative. You just have to take your own society's word for it sometimes!

I also feel a little more vindicated in my willingness to eat "old" food from the fridge, trusting my eyes and nose and tongue: Molds are bad, brightly colored ones more so, and bad smells and flavors mean bad food. As far as I'm aware, I've never gotten food poisoning (although I also hear that's mostly a result of people not washing their hands in food harvesting and prep after using the toilet!)

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Industrialization of traditional fermentation processes produces more *uniform* products, but doesn't really increase safety, and the flavors tend to be of only middling quality. The nutrition can also be reduced relative to the traditional methods. Both of these are because the industrial process uses one or more pure cultures on sterilized ingredients, rather than high diversity of species and strains you'd get from indigenous bacteria (those found on hands and ingredients). This is also why you can't really culture yogurt from storebought yogurt for more than a couple of iterations; the theory is that bacteriophages eventually kill of your cultures. Traditional yogurts use traditional yogurts as starters, and the diverse ecosystem of bacteria is more resistant to infection. Unfortunately, food regulators often don't understand this, and sometimes crack down on traditional fermentation; one salami-maker had to pay $100,000 to commission a study proving to the USDA that his methods don't allow _E. coli_ to grow. If he had succumbed to pressure, he would have had to use methods that make the same homogeneous salami that everyone else makes, rather than the exceptional products he was known for. And the use of pure cultures also inhibits home production and experimentation; if commercial yogurts used the historical Bulgarian cultures, I'd be able to make my own yogurt at home just by taking a sample of storebought stuff.

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Meat and fish fermentation is more difficult because of the lack of carbohydrates -- there's no food for the safe bacteria, so putrefying bacteria have free reign. That's why salami has sugar added, and why fish is so often fermented with rice. (This is also why curing flesh requires so much more salt than preserving vegetables.)

Botulism used to be primarily caused by improperly prepared sausages (hence the name, from the Latin "botulus", for "sausage"). In the anaerobic, high water-activity, low acidity interior of meat, _Clostridium botulinum_ can thrive; traditional meat fermentation uses a combination of drying, salting, and souring to protect against this. In modern times, however, we get to enjoy the risk of botulism from canned vegetables as well! These vegetables would historically have been fermented instead, with far safer results. A special case is garlic in olive oil, which is *too* anaerobic; the safe thing to do is to ferment the garlic first, *then* use it for infusion. There was also a depressing note on Alaskan fish preservation -- traditional fermentation was done in grass-lined pits, but some people are switching to plastic and are getting botulism as a result of the anaerobic environment. Be careful of messing with traditions that work.

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Many fermentations (or foods in general) are best done in a specific geographic and cultural context. For example, fermentations involving mold (e.g. tempeh, soy sauce, miso) are harder to arrange in a low tech way unless you live in a climate that is conducive to them, since the molds want access to air but *also* humidity *and* warm temperatures. Fish are easier to dry in a cool, dry, sunny climate. Meat is best preserved in cool, humid conditions, so slaughter and hunting are preferentially done at certain times of year. Many fermentations rely on local ingredients that are hard to acquire elsewhere, where preservation would be required for shipping and would destroy the important microbes on their surfaces. I would *like* to make my own tempeh, and it wouldn't be too hard, but I can't just get it going based on local materials. On the other hand, sauerkraut is ridiculously easy to make in New England; all I need is a cabbage, salt, a scale, and a jar (and ideally also a basement.) Those are things I already have. I'll likely do some experimentation with millet and lentils in fermented batters, such as dosa.

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A good many fermentations are about preserving an abundance of food for the scarce part of the year -- sauerkraut, rakfisk, umeboshi. But others are primarily about developing flavors (wine, chocolate, miso), making the indigestible or toxic into something edible (some seeds), or reducing cooking requirements (many vegetables and grains, tough meat). In a few cases you get new forms entirely, like sourdough bread and carbonated beverages. These aren't exclusive, of course; soybeans in particular show up in almost all of these categories. Cheese certainly spans many of them.

I think my main interests are in "putting food up" during the harvest season with reducing cooking requirements a second, but I also delight in the wide variety of flavors. However, the latter more applies to fermentations I'm unlikely to do myself, such as cheese and mold/soy processes.
squirrelitude: (Default)
Most of the plants I brought indoors are now on trays under lights. I need to find a simple set of fixtures, lights, and cords that I can use to put more light onto the "plant islands" from various directions.

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I chopped up all the green tomatoes and am fermenting them. 250 g went into a sort of chow chow inspired jar, equal parts green tomato, daikon radish, and green cabbage leaves, with garlic, celery, mustard seeds, and 2% salt by vegetable weight. The remaining 1600 g went into a big jar with 2% salt and nothing else. There are also about 8 tomatoes that have decided they're going to ripen instead of staying green. Maybe some late salsa.

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This evening I composted all the dead plants from the front yard containers and sorted the pots into occupied/unoccupied for the spring. They're mostly moved up against the porch so they don't get salt-laden sidewalk snow shoveled onto them. Rain barrel is emptied lest it freeze and crack, hoses are drained and disconnected. Thermostat is set, although not in use yet. I'm going to hold off on plasticking windows until I can get a read on whether they're actually any colder than our walls, which I don't think are well-insulated. Maybe we can put up gauzy curtains instead, which should help prevent convection currents without making the windows unopenable on the occasional warm day.

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I discovered that the sweet potato I planted on a lark has produced a second tuber. It sounds like they won't overwinter even underground here (unless planted really deep, I guess?) so I've brought those in. I'll see if I can grow one of them as a houseplant for the winter. They want heat and sun, but maybe they'll creep along OK in dim and cold conditions.

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